We are invited to olivier and Benedicte’s house with Pierre, up in the hills above Mirepoix. Olivier has built the house himself over many years. They have ducks, geese, chickens, dogs and cats. They grow an assortment of vegetables for use in their restaurant.

Tonight Olivier serves up home cured meat and home made pâté  (See recipe) . Spit roast lamb (from Benedicte’s father’s farm) is cooking in the massive fireplace as we enter the kitchen. The space is huge – like a medieval hall. We have spent many a long lunch or dinner at this table. When Abi was at school with Olivier’s children she would be invited to lunch if I had to collect Ed from the airport. The food was cooked by mamie, Benedicte’s mother and there was always a feast. One lunchtime Abi told me she had a lovely meal of cochon de nez (pig’s nose) served with green beans. She liked the beans.

Tonight we enjoy the feast and start with asparagus (home grown) and a salmon salad.  Next is the meat and the lamb is perfect, pink and juicy. Benedicte serves it with potatoes freshly dug that day, fresh spinach wilted in butter and Ceps (meaty mushrooms collected from Olivier’s wood). We bring a dessert from Cedric Diant – a chocolate ganache gateaux with icing as glossy as silk. 

One of the first times we were invited to the Llobets house was on Christmas Eve. We started the evening with drinks and canapés in their kitchen. Slices of home cured sausage, tiny toasts with home made pâté, huge Spanish olives the size of small eggs. Washed down with delicious blanquette de Limoux, Muscat, or crisp rosé. We moved from the kitchen into the dining room. A Seafood platter appeared next with Ed managing 12 oysters, followed by the main course of fillet steak, melting in the mouth. Cheeses next with 5 or 6 to choose from. Then the bouché de Noël (a log shaped sponge filled with cream and decorated with hazelnut icing and Christmas figures).Coffee, cigars and chocolates followed with cognac, whisky or any drink you can think of. It was meal we will never forget. One of many in France

This is my recipe from when we had our own restaurant in the UK

GOLDINGTON’S PÂTÉ 

500g chicken livers

150g smoked streaky bacon

150g button mushrooms 

I medium onion chopped finely

4 slices of bread processed into breadcrumbs 

1 tsp dried mixed herbs

2 cloves garlic chopped

3 tbs sherry

2tbs double cream

salt and pepper

1kg loaf tin greased and lined with baking parchment

50g butter 

Melt the butter and add the onion, garlic and bacon. Cook for a few minutes until the onion is translucent. Add the chicken livers, mushrooms, mixed herbs and sherry.  Cook for another two minutes then put the mixture into the food processor. Process until smooth. Add the cream and then the breadcrumbs and salt and pepper.  Pulse until mixed then pour into the loaf tin and smooth the surface.  Cover with foil and place in a roasting tin. Tip in boiling water half way up the loaf tin and bake at 170ºC/150ºC FAN for about an hour.   Check by putting a skewer in the middle and if it comes out clear, the pâté is cooked. 

For the restaurant, I would put the pâté into small ramekins and melt butter over the top, decorating with chopped olives or parsley.  You can however, just slice the pâté once its cold and serve with a salad garnish.

Bon Appétit 

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