At the beginning of December, we visited Le Manoir in Oxfordshire and it was a delight from beginning to end. We have been fans of Raymond Blanc for many years and this was a real highlight for us.

We arrived in pouring rain and as we pulled into the car park, we were met with a member of staff who greeted us and produced a huge umbrella to take us into Le Manoir.

The house is stunning, set in beautiful gardens, full of sculptures, monuments, different areas for herbs, fruit and vegetables.

As we entered the front door to the house, we were greeted by Beth who immediately made us feel at home and told us all about the hotel and it’s facilities. After our chat we were shown to our room. The room was stunning, decorated in traditional french style with beautiful fabrics and colour. We were delighted with the view which looked down the drive of Le Manoir and became alive with tiny twinkling lights as dusk descended.

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We unpacked and went exploring. The back entrance to the house contained boots and coats for our use in bad weather so we booted up and set out to walk around the grounds. The first area we came to was the pond with a sculpture of flying geese and a woman reaching into the water.

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Next we found Maman Blanc’s garden with a statue of her sitting amongst the herbs. It was very touching to see this as Madame Blanc had recently passed away. Raymond Blanc always attributes his success as a first class chef to his mother’s skill in the kitchen at their family home in France.

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We returned to the house to warm up and sat beside a roaring fire. Staff brought us afternoon tea with slices of lemon cake, made that day in the kitchens of the Manoir. After a relaxing couple of hours, we headed upstairs to get ready for the evening meal.

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I enjoyed a soak in the bath in the luxurious surroundings of the cream marble bathroom, whilst looking out of the window and down the drive where hundreds of tiny white lights lit up the hotel.

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We went down to the lounge and ordered a couple of aperitifs. The waiter brought the menu and took our wine order. The menu was incredible and we couldn’t wait to try it. We finished our drinks and were taken through to the Orangerie where we were seated in full view of the Sommeliers’ table. Ed was delighted as it gave him a chance to see the elaborate procedure when wine is ordered, opened, tested and then poured.

I will explain the menu in my next blog. For now, I wish all of you a Happy and Peaceful New Year and here’s to writing about more new adventures in 2022.

Our friends Ros and Andy came down from France to visit us for a couple of days. Andy is a potter and Ros is an artist. They were picking up some materials from a nearby suppliers and came to stay with us in Empuria afterwards. It was great to catch up with them and hear their news as we spent a lot of time together when we lived in France.

They have a house near Mirepoix with stunning views over to the Pyrenees. They ran a bed and breakfast in Bath before moving to Spain and amazingly, a couple of years ago, we booked that same B and B, not realising it was their previous home, until I noticed some of Ros’s paintings on show. We collected many of her paintings whilst living in France and they are now proudly displayed on the walls of our house in Suffolk.

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That evening, we dined at El Raco de Mar, a restaurant on the front with lovely views to the sea and a very comprehensive menu. The Parillada de poissons was enormous as was the fillet of beef. We were intrigued with the “Twisters” (spring rolls in the shape of a long cone).

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We had breakfast at the Monserrat Supermercado the following day and I took Ros to the local Chinese emporium. This is the biggest Chinese store I have ever seen and covers the whole shopping centre. It sells everything from toothpicks to tools and from fancy dress to feathers.

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Then on to Mercadona supermercado where there is a huge fresh fish counter with many types of fish delivered every morning. There was turbot, bass, snappers, sardines and anchovies on display at incredibly low prices. There was also a large selection of Iberico jamón (delicious cured ham) and aged Manchego cheese, all the ingredients needed for a tasty plate of Spanish tapas.

Andy picked up the materials he needed for his work from the nearby town of Bisbal. The name Bisbal is derived from the Catalan word for bishop as the town was previously owned by the bishops of Girona. The economy of the town is heavily reliant on pottery manufacture as well as agriculture.

The following day, Andy and Ros were heading back to France. All the different powders were packed in clear plastic bags and as they opened the boot of their car to put their cases in, I couldn’t help but wonder what the French border customs would make of dozens of plastic bags filled with white powder.

Bon chance!

We left Empuria on a sunny afternoon and arrived in Mirepoix a couple of hours later with a temperature drop of ten degrees. The view of the Pyrenees as we came to Fanjeux was incredible and the welcome in Mirepoix more than made up for the cold weather. We met up with Ros, Andy, Ian and Jo, in Mirepoix market and had a coffee at St. Maurice Cafe with fresh croissants. The market was full of wonderful fresh products – oysters, mussels, clams, fresh bread, fresh cheeses and so many olive stalls.

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We walked across to Pierre’s agency and he took us to his house where we are staying for the next couple of days. The house has been decorated with Pierre’s usual impeccable taste and looks amazing. There is still some work to be done but it looks beautiful.

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After we unpack we drive over to Chalabre where we had previously lived and collect some paintings from a friend’s house. The village looks much the same, apart from the Carrefour store they have built right next to our old house which shades most of the walled garden from any light.

Back to Mirepoix and a rest before we’re out again up to Benedicte and Olivier’s house just above Camón. Olivier built this house from scratch and we christened it The Ponderosa. We are greeted at the huge gates by six dogs and Polly is petrified. Two Pyrenean mountain dogs, two hunting dogs and two smaller dogs. Ed keeps a tight hold on Polly as instructed by Olivier – until we get in to the house. They are so pleased to see us and make us very welcome. We sit in the salon and have some crisp cold rosé and aperos. The dogs are everywhere, enjoying the food. Polly is not amused!

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We catch up with all their news. Julian their son is now an estate agent in Toulouse and Elise, their daughter is a lawyer. Sadly, they have sold their restaurant Llobet in Mirepoix and Benedicte now works at the Abbey in Fanjeaux, cooking for the Dominican nuns. She relates some funny tales about how she makes the food and delivers it to the refectory on a trolley, but she is not allowed to talk and everyone eats in silence. The kitchen is a different matter though and is filled with chatter from the kitchen staff (mostly younger nuns). Benedicte loves this job as it’s much less pressure than running a restaurant. Olivier has other ideas though, as he has purchased a property in Camon and wants to open a café/restaurant/ épicerie.

The meal is delicious, with most of the food having been grown on their land. A colourful salad of tomatoes, followed by Toulouse sausages baked on top of apples and potatoes. Dessert is an apple pancake baked in the pan. Ed and Olivier discuss the provenance and age of the wine, although Olivier speaks hardly any English and Ed speaks very little French but they have been friends for years and have always managed to converse – especially where wine is involved.

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Tomorrow Limoux and the Commerce

This charming restaurant really embodies Spain and all it has to offer. Beautiful views of the sea, comfortable outdoor seating and most of all great Spanish food.

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We have an assortment of tapas, artichokes with a spicy sauce, melting Camembert with crunchy dipping biscuits, calamares in the lightest of tempura batter. One of the best tortillas I have ever tasted, soft and runny in the middle and golden crunchy on the outside, topped with garlic mayonnaise. The crunchy tomato bread is delicious, baked until golden brown and then topped with olive oil and sweet pulped tomatoes.

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After the meal, we take a walk along the front and buy ice cream from one of the many vendors. Too many flavours to choose from – coffee, lemon sorbet, nougat, chocolate, mint, hazelnut and on and on. Home for some night caps of baileys, whiskey and wine (not in the same glass!).

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In the morning we walk down to Monserrat Cafe and order breakfast, English style, before they all leave for the airport and Pierre heads back to France. A great week and it has been a lot of fun spending time with everybody. Ed takes them to Girona whilst I catch up with all the washing and clearing up, wishing they were still here.

Tonight we’re invited to our Irish friends and we sit on their balcony looking out over the port and the sea, drinking wine and catching up on their news. Their daughter has moved in to the apartment downstairs in the same block, with her Spanish husband and they have a new baby daughter, just eight months old. They are just off to San Sebastián for a few days and we look forward to hearing all about the trip. San Sebastián has the most Michelin starred restaurants per square metre in Europe. I think we need to make a trip there soon. In the meantime we’re off to France this week, to stay with Pierre for a few days and see our friends in Mirepoix.

A bientôt

Pierre arrived from Mirepoix for the weekend. It’s good to see him after two years and catch up with life in the Ariege. He has been busy over lockdown, with people wishing to escape life in the big cities and move out to the beautiful French countryside. Most of the houses on his agency books have been sold. Some without the client even seeing them, such is the demand.

On the first evening, we eat at Pura Brasa, a great meat restaurant which serves wagyu beef. The burgers are extraordinary and it’s the first time Claudia has tried wagyu beef.

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Ed is offered a straw for the huge bottle of red but declines and shares it with the rest of our party.

It’s always a pleasure to see Pierre as he introduces us to places we have never visited before. This week we went to Peretallada, a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, about 40 minutes from Empuria. It is set on a hillside with tiny winding cobbled streets. All the original doors and buildings still remain and it is a fascinating place. We walk the cobbled lanes and have lunch in a cool spot on the square.

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Later we stop in Torroella de Montgri, another delightful town with a wonderful pastry shop and lots of interesting architecture. There is an old cinema with a restaurant attached. Pierre said he used to eat there many years ago and the food was very good. I feel like a small child next to Pierre and the tallest door in the world!

Second evening we eat at Capitan – Claudia is fascinated with Abi’s order of oysters. Pierre and I share a dish of thinly sliced courgette, dressed with olive oil, sun dried tomato, parmesan and black pepper.

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Next – Enjoying a meal at the ENJOY restaurant

Today was interesting. We set off to Figueres and spent the morning looking at the sights, shopping and drinking coffee. First of all we came across a garage with a most unusual style of working. The cars are balanced somewhat precariously on a metal scissor elevator and the engineer works from a wooden ladder!

Next up was was the old herbalist shop that has been here since 1981, still selling beauty and diet products and giving advice on any health issue you may care to consult them about. We walked on to some of Dali’s statues and tributes, including an amazing trompe l’œil of Dali’s face.

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We left the town and drove back to Empuria where we stopped at Capitans for lunch. Sitting next to us was a French couple and they had a basket of what looked like Cep mushrooms. I asked the guy where he had bought them and he said he got them from a local man (actually a fisherman who was also an expert in foraging for rare mushrooms) and he was waiting for some more. Within a few minutes, back came the fisherman with another basket of fungi, the like of which I have never seen before.

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He explained to us the different types but apparently the most rare was the Amanita Caesera (the orange one in the photo). The amanita is the same genus as some of the most toxic mushrooms in the world. The Caesera was named after the Roman emperors, who were very fond of this mushroom. So fond in fact, that Claudius was poisoned by his wife, who mixed the mushrooms with a similar coloured poisonous one. Needless to say, we thanked the forager profusely when he offered us some, but declined to buy them.

Buen apetito

Abi, Julian and Claudia arrive and it’s wonderful to be able to enjoy a holiday together again. Ed picked them up from Girona and gave them a tour of Empuria on the way to the villa.

First night was spent at the tapas bar and then down to Capitan for a night cap. The drinks here are large and even larger for Ed when they just leave the bottle of whiskey and a glass in front of him and let him help himself (only charging for one shot, no matter how many he has!).

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Next morning we pay a visit to the supermarket and come back with all sorts of goodies. Lunch at home and then out in the evening to Tagliatelle Italian restaurant. Pizzas, pastas and puddings all good, finishing at Capitans once again.

In the meantime, we sort out the dreaded PCR tests for the kids. For once, a simple procedure – just go to the medical centre, click on the QR code which tells you exactly what to do. Queue up, take the test and the result is through either immediately, a day later or two days later, depending on how urgent your test is. The cost – only 20 euros, compared to the ridiculous prices charged in some areas. Thank goodness this test will soon be history.

The kids go down to the beach and enjoy the sun and the sea. They are back in the afternoon for a swim and a cool down in the pool. Last night we walked down and bought two rotisserie chickens with potatoes cooked in the chicken juices – delicious. We served them with a large salad full of local produce. Huge tomatoes, sliced up with mozzarella, mixed green lettuces and french beans. We finished with a very ripe Camembert and fresh bread.

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Tomorrow Pura Brasa and Wagyu Beef

Driving on from Lyon, we stop at an Aire around half way. There’s a pretty picnic area so we sit down to a fresh crusty french loaf and various goodies we bought in Beaune. Delicious cheeses, sweet tomatoes and some pate. We continue on the autoroute and as we reach Narbonne, we see the wonderful Mediterranean Sea. We follow the coast towards Perpignan, Argeles and Collioure and arrive at the french border and pay the toll from Lyon to Port Bou. We then cross into Spain with a fabulous view of the Pyrenees and with no checks whatsoever. The tolls are all open and free and we head towards Figueres and Castelló d’Empúries.

After about ten minutes, we take the road to Empuriabrava. Then, at last, after two and a half years away, we reach the town. So good to be back. Only once during our journey from Calais to Spain, were we asked for proof of vaccination. But we’re finally here and its great to be back.

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We arrive at the villa and unpack. Straight down to the beach for a walk and a Mojito at Vivienne’s bar, then on to Tony’s bar for tapas.

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We end the night at Capitan restaurant and see Cielo, who greets us with a great big hug, an even bigger whiskey and a great welcome back.

We drove from Reims on to Lyon, where the motorway runs along the Rhône and through the outskirts of this great city. En route we saw the most incredible building called the Musee des Confluences, where the Saône and Rhone rivers converge. The museum tells the story of mankind and the history of life, through exhibits, science and architecture.

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We carried on towards our hotel and as we came off the auto route just outside Lyon, we drove through a huge industrial area and I started to wonder just where I had booked our hotel. The road suddenly changed and we left all the traffic behind. The road went higher and higher, until we finally arrived in a tiny village way above Lyon with stunning views. We were made very welcome by the owner who made a great fuss of Polly and then showed us to our room. In the evening we had a meal in the elegant dining room, laid with crisp white linen and fresh flowers. The food was delicious, with Noix St Jacques, Cuisse de grenouilles, Filet de Boeuf, cheese and dessert. On the cheese plate the waiter had chosen for us, was Brillat-Savarin (I had never eaten it before). It was running off the plate and so delicious.

France is full of little gems like this hotel, tucked away in a small village high up above Lyon. We finished the evening walking to the square and watching the locals play pétanque on a mild, soft September evening. Vive la France

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España mañana