Earlier this year, after a brilliant week in Austria, we left Spielmann’s hotel with a heavy heart as it really is a home from home for us. On through the mountains to Innsbruck and into Italy. The drive was somewhat precarious this time as the roads were extremely icy and we struggled with the winding bends across the Fern pass. We finally arrived and booked into the wonderful Hotel Nazionale in Desenzano del Garda, a few minutes from the lake.

Desenzano at night is a amazing, full of great restaurants, bars and shops. We unpacked and set off for an early evening drink. The shops were still open and I spied lots and lots of lovely Italian soft leather shoes – all at half price! I thought I’d spend Sunday morning in those shops as they were open all day. On we went to several bars, then a restaurant and finally another bar. Each place poured huge Proseccos in enormous glasses and I gladly accepted the Limencollo offered at the end of the night.

Sadly, I never made those shops and could only dream about the lovely Italian shoes from my bed at the hotel, where I spent most of Sunday trying to recover from the excesses of the night before. I managed an omelette around evening time and slept until Monday, when all the shops were closed. Up early and off to Spain. That’ll teach me – never drinking again I said.

Next stop Spain

After Margate and Bruges, we drove across Germany the next day, stopping near Kaiserslautern for the night in a town called Pirmasens. Many years ago, I went to visit there with my friend Vonnie. We had met a couple of German lads in Spain the previous year and decided to take up their invitation to visit Germany. They lived with their parents in Pirmasens and we arrived one wet Saturday afternoon on their doorstep with several suitcases. The parents were not exactly over the moon to be hosting two young English girls and after two weeks under their roof and a lot of German shouting matches going on between the sons and the parents, we decided it was time to leave. We expect there was a lot of celebrating after we left their lovely home.

We found a small apartment in Kaiserslautern and one of my brothers arranged for us to work for a friend of his (let’s call him Wayne). Wayne was a somewhat colourful character and the job he gave us was selling sets of saucepans to the Americans on the nearby army base in Kaiserslautern. Wayne gave us basic training on how to sell and we had to do a trial run and cook a simple dish in the customer’s kitchen. Vonnie and I knocked on doors and managed to get a few sales.

On one occasion, were invited into an apartment full of American soldiers, who were very friendly until their wives came home and threw us out of the place. Then Wayne wanted us to sell separately, hence doubling our sales. We both hated this idea (and we hated Wayne) but we tried it for a week or so. I knocked on one door and an English lady answered. She invited me in and I told her that I hated this work. She and her husband took us under their wing, sharing their home and their dog with us and making sure we were well fed and looked after. We decided that selling was not for us so we headed back to UK and told my brother exactly what we thought of Wayne the wonderful. Thus ended our very short career in sales.

Back to the story. We left Pirmasens the following morning, arriving in Ehrwald at 4pm that afternoon. We were greeted on our arrival by the Spielman staff and family, who made us feel at home straight away. As we drove up to the hotel, we noticed a lovely new building and asked if it was an annexe to the hotel, but no – it was the new staff lodgings.

Once we unpacked, we put on our winter boots and coats (Polly hated her coat) and set off down to the village to one of our favourite cafés. We ate bockwurst and Senf mustard – washed down with Weissbier – delicious!

We left home at lunch time with Lola in the very safe hands of the lovely Kristina and Iain (house sitters extraordinaire). I think Lola would like them to adopt her as she really couldn’t care less when we get home and ignores us for a few days.

We stayed with Rosie in Margate – a town which has had so much change going on in the last ten years it’s hard to recognise it. Lots of small original boutiques with lovely things to buy. Great coffee shops. A huge choice of places to eat and a delightful seafront. Olivia Coleman appeared there a few weeks back, promoting her latest film Empire of the Light, a film inspired by Sam Mendes’ visit to the town.

We started the evening at our friends’ house for drinks. The house has been transformed and is outstanding with most of the original features kept and updated. After drinks, we ate at a Turkish restaurant, where I had mouth watering lamb. We ordered far too much which resulted in a take home bag for Brian, as an extra treat for his dinner.

On Sunday Rosie and I went shopping and picked up a few nice things, followed by coffee and cake in a seafront cafe, very reminiscent of cafes we went to as kids in the 60s. We picked up some freshly baked bread in the bakers, along with the biggest fruit buns I’ve ever seen.

We left for France the next morning, having started the holiday with a lovely weekend in Margate.

By the time we arrived at Eurotunnel, the rain was lashing down. We dashed across to the pet control and Polly’s passport was duly stamped. We bought bacon rolls and coffee and boarded within 20 minutes. By the time we arrived in France, we had eaten the rolls, drank the coffee and had a five minute snooze. On to Bruges, arriving there by 2pm, where we stayed at the Hotel Tulip de Medici, a short walk away from the main square. Walking down to the square we noticed that Christmas was still in full swing here with lots of decorations left up. We dined at the Surf and Turf, a restaurant we often use. Belgian stew for me and rabbit with mustard sauce for Ed.

Next morning, we were up and away early, heading for Austria, via Germany. Auf Wiedersehen fur jetzt

Irene and Chris came to visit this week. They had a house in Mirepoix some years ago. Irene would visit Maggie in her shop. Maggie would close her shop and leave a message on the door whilst she and Irene had coffee on the square. Sometimes customers would come and find Maggie if they wanted to buy something. In the evening they went out drinking with Eddie and Chris – they must have been very thirsty.

They went on a tour of this area and must still be thirsty because they always seemed to stop for a drink. Maggie said the Commerce Restaurant near the cathedral in Mirepoix was very nice and they had another drink there.

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They visited the local lake – Lac Montbel. It’s not a lake just a big puddle. Eddie says everywhere is very dry in the world and they can only paddle in this lake, as there’s very little water for swimming now.

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Maggie, Eddie, Irene and Chris, went to the Relais Royal hotel for a meal. It was very delicious. We didn’t go AGAIN.

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The next day Irene and Chris were leaving for UK. They had their breakfast outside in the sun. I had a VERY small piece of toast from Irene. Even though I did my best begging face.

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Eddie and Maggie took them to the airport but of course they had another meal WITHOUT us in the Rendezvous Restaurant in Carcassonne. More nice food. The hamburger wasn’t Maggie’s, it belonged to a handsome young man who Maggie asked if she could take a picture. I think she wanted a picture of the man. I just wanted the hamburger.

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Eddie and Maggie went into Carcassonne – it is a lovely city and they visited the places they knew. Eddie liked the old car. Maggie liked the shoe shops

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This week Maggie and Eddie caught up with lots of friends in France. Ros and Andy have a lovely house overlooking the Pyrenees. The view is beautiful. Maggie and Eddie have been swimming a lot and eating a lot. Maggie cooked a nice supper for their friends. We didn’t get any of the food.

On Sunday Maggie and Eddie went to see Olivier and Benedicte, their very good friends who live in a big house Eddie calls “The Ponderosa”. Olivier loves Eddie and always kisses him when they meet. Eddie is a little bit embarrassed. There are seven dogs at Oliviers so we were not invited. The dogs are very lovely, Maggie said. We’re angry because we are the best dogs.

Maggie and Eddie are a bit sad this week. A very old lady whom they have known all their lives, has died. Lots of people are queuing up to say goodbye to this special woman. Maggie and Eddie said their goodbyes too. Bye Bye Elizabeth – “May Flights Of Ángels Sing Thee To Thy Rest”.

Today we are going to France. My owners Eddie and Maggie love France. I have never been there but my little sister Polly has. She was born in France and has her own passport. I had to have a special letter that Eddie paid a lot of money for.

We are driving to the Eurotunnel. Eddie is a bit cross. They have closed the big road called the M11 because there was a fire and it is taking a very long time to clear, so we have a nice drive through the countryside with lovely views. Eddie doesn’t think the view is nice. After a long drive, we arrive at the Eurotunnel.

There are lots and lots of cars with lots and lots of dogs. There is a problem with the tunnel because the trains are running late. I like the other dogs and try to play with them, but some are mean to me and Eddie has to keep pulling me away from them.

We go to the doggie centre and a nice man checks my expensive piece of paper. He stamps it and tells us if we drive very fast, we may just get on the next train. Although we drive quickly to the waiting area, there is a very long queue and we have to wait another long time. Eventually we drive on to the train. It feels very strange to me because the car is very still but we are moving very fast. Eddie and Maggie drink a cup of coffee and feel better. Polly is in the front seat (as usual) and I’m in the back.

After a very quick journey, we drive off the big train and go on to the French roads. They are much nicer than the British roads. After a while we arrive at an hotel. I want to sleep on the bed but I’m not allowed. I sleep on the floor beside Eddie and Polly sleeps on the bed (as usual). In the night I have a bad tummy and Maggie has to get up and clean up the bathroom floor. Poor Maggie. Eddie and Polly are snoring on the bed.

In the morning, we go for a nice walk next to the hotel and have our breakfast. Maggie and Eddie have some breakfast too, but it’s not very nice. The coffee is cold and Maggie spills it down her nice shirt. Maggie is cross.

We leave to drive on those long roads again. The weather is not too good. We drive through a big city called Paris. There are a lot of strange shaped buildings. The other drivers are very rude but Eddie stays calm and Maggie shrieks at them all.

Soon we are at a very nice hotel with cabins in the wood. I like this hotel. Maggie and Eddie like this hotel too – the wine and food are very good. Polly sleeps on the bed again.

Here she comes again, picks me up, tries me on and places me back on the table. £2! £2! I was £200 when I was new, in Selfridges hat department straight from the designers, back in the 1960s. The young girl had chosen me for her wedding day going away outfit. She tried me on and decided I was perfect. The assistant wrapped me in tissue paper and put me in a splendid pink hat box. After the wedding, the bride changed and put me on her head and off they went in the open top sports car to the airport.

The groom took the bend too fast and I flew off, spiralling down and round and finally landing on the back of a lorry. By the time they turned back I was on my way to France.

The lorry driver stopped for a break at a French road cafe and found the hat – tres chic, he thought, as he placed it beside him in the cab. His wife was thrilled, realising it was a designer hat. She asked where it came from and her husband said he had no idea. He found it on the back of the truck when he arrived at the café. The wife wore me to church where everyone admired me. A few months her daughter wore me for her wedding.

The daughter wore me to several other weddings and I ended up in an attic somewhere in the south of France. A few years later, the children wore me to their fancy dress party in school and I was placed in the dressing up box. From there I was given to the local charity shop and sold on to a theatre in Paris. I was displayed for a season of shows and then I was put in the theatrical box, forgotten for many years until the theatre closed down and was sold.

English people bought the box and I ended up back in the UK where I languished in another attic for many years, coming out from time to time for dressing up with the kids. The mother cleared out the attic and gave me to the local charity shop. They priced me at £2. £2! A couple came in to browse and the grey haired wife picked me up and put me on. She looked at herself in the mirror and started crying. She called her husband over and told him that I was the going away hat she wore all those years ago.

The husband was dubious but the woman pointed to the tiny little red bow that the bride’s mother had sewn to the ribbon. That’s the bow my mother put in for luck!

The husband smiled and said its £2, buy it. The woman knew I was her hat and took me home. She found the original box, opened it and placed me back in the tissue paper, ready for the next generation of weddings.

We discovered Los Amigos bar during a previous visit to Empuria, a tiny little place tucked away near the canal. Jose and his wife run it and it is delightful. We stopped by one evening and were served with a drink and a plate of tapas. We spoke to Jose and discovered that he had come from the Ukraine to set up his little bar. Life in Spain he said, was a completely different story to living in Ukraine, especially at the moment.

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On the second visit, Jose greeted us as if we were family. That evening, we met up with a french couple who had made a permanent move to Spain and spent a pleasant evening with them. I asked them why they had left France and they said it was because of the charges. France is highly taxed and they said that in Spain, everything was less expensive. They rent an apartment overlooking the marina with incredible views to the sea. Life they said, was good here and if they were missing France, they only had a 30 minute drive back to their home country.

The following day we visited Mercadona supermarket and as we parked, a guy was standing at his car with the boot open and a most adorable dog was in the back. I went to talk to the owner and made a fuss of his dog, Amy. Gerry introduced himself and said he was from Holland.

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Two days later, we were in Cheesemi’s restaurant in the Marina when we bumped into Gerry again, we had a chat and discussed our dogs and various other topics. Then a day after, we saw him again at the supermarket. This was now more than a coincidence so we swapped emails and are now in touch, discussing our life, food, dogs and this year’s trips. Gerry and his wife Janny come to Spain every year in the autumn and spring. They bring a motor home and park it right next to the sea. Amy can run along the beach and enjoy a splash in the sea – a dog’s life can be wonderful.

It seems every time we visit Europe we make new friends. It is the most amazing place and we love the different customs, food, wine and people we meet on our journey. On Valentine’s night we met some more new people in Los Amigos Bar but that tale remains to be told – maybe!

A l’amitié

In my last blog, I mentioned the menu at Raymond Blanc’s Restaurant in Oxfordshire. So here are details of that incredible meal.

We started with two amuse bouchées, mouthfuls of delicious appetisers that just melted away.

First course was a light as a feather butternut squash pasta, served in a blue cheese and walnut broth, followed by Scottish langoustine with miso and dashi sauce. Third course was a truffled egg sitting in a mushroom tea

Cornish turbot with wasabi and caviar was served next, delicious, fiery and so colourful.

We had the perfect position in the restaurant, opposite the sommelier’s table, where we watched as the sommelier opened the bottles, checked the cork, poured a sip into a glass and tested it, then took the bottle to the table. Ed’s dream job.

Next was the venison, full of flavour, served with red cabbage and cranberry.

A sharp sweet delightful orange carpaccio followed which cleansed the palate, ready for the final course, a chocolate and coconut delight.

We finished with coffee in the sitting room, next to the fire. A truly marvellous meal.

We are now in Spain, enjoying the sun and food – more stories to come from the Mediterranean soon. Happy Valentine Day! 💕