Our friends Ros and Andy came down from France to visit us for a couple of days. Andy is a potter and Ros is an artist. They were picking up some materials from a nearby suppliers and came to stay with us in Empuria afterwards. It was great to catch up with them and hear their news as we spent a lot of time together when we lived in France.

They have a house near Mirepoix with stunning views over to the Pyrenees. They ran a bed and breakfast in Bath before moving to Spain and amazingly, a couple of years ago, we booked that same B and B, not realising it was their previous home, until I noticed some of Ros’s paintings on show. We collected many of her paintings whilst living in France and they are now proudly displayed on the walls of our house in Suffolk.

That evening, we dined at El Raco de Mar, a restaurant on the front with lovely views to the sea and a very comprehensive menu. The Parillada de poissons was enormous as was the fillet of beef. We were intrigued with the “Twisters” (spring rolls in the shape of a long cone).

We had breakfast at the Monserrat Supermercado the following day and I took Ros to the local Chinese emporium. This is the biggest Chinese store I have ever seen and covers the whole shopping centre. It sells everything from toothpicks to tools and from fancy dress to feathers.

Then on to Mercadona supermercado where there is a huge fresh fish counter with many types of fish delivered every morning. There was turbot, bass, snappers, sardines and anchovies on display at incredibly low prices. There was also a large selection of Iberico jamón (delicious cured ham) and aged Manchego cheese, all the ingredients needed for a tasty plate of Spanish tapas.

Andy picked up the materials he needed for his work from the nearby town of Bisbal. The name Bisbal is derived from the Catalan word for bishop as the town was previously owned by the bishops of Girona. The economy of the town is heavily reliant on pottery manufacture as well as agriculture.

The following day, Andy and Ros were heading back to France. All the different powders were packed in clear plastic bags and as they opened the boot of their car to put their cases in, I couldn’t help but wonder what the French border customs would make of dozens of plastic bags filled with white powder.

Bon chance!

We left Empuria on a sunny afternoon and arrived in Mirepoix a couple of hours later with a temperature drop of ten degrees. The view of the Pyrenees as we came to Fanjeux was incredible and the welcome in Mirepoix more than made up for the cold weather. We met up with Ros, Andy, Ian and Jo, in Mirepoix market and had a coffee at St. Maurice Cafe with fresh croissants. The market was full of wonderful fresh products – oysters, mussels, clams, fresh bread, fresh cheeses and so many olive stalls.

We walked across to Pierre’s agency and he took us to his house where we are staying for the next couple of days. The house has been decorated with Pierre’s usual impeccable taste and looks amazing. There is still some work to be done but it looks beautiful.

After we unpack we drive over to Chalabre where we had previously lived and collect some paintings from a friend’s house. The village looks much the same, apart from the Carrefour store they have built right next to our old house which shades most of the walled garden from any light.

Back to Mirepoix and a rest before we’re out again up to Benedicte and Olivier’s house just above Camón. Olivier built this house from scratch and we christened it The Ponderosa. We are greeted at the huge gates by six dogs and Polly is petrified. Two Pyrenean mountain dogs, two hunting dogs and two smaller dogs. Ed keeps a tight hold on Polly as instructed by Olivier – until we get in to the house. They are so pleased to see us and make us very welcome. We sit in the salon and have some crisp cold rosé and aperos. The dogs are everywhere, enjoying the food. Polly is not amused!

We catch up with all their news. Julian their son is now an estate agent in Toulouse and Elise, their daughter is a lawyer. Sadly, they have sold their restaurant Llobet in Mirepoix and Benedicte now works at the Abbey in Fanjeaux, cooking for the Dominican nuns. She relates some funny tales about how she makes the food and delivers it to the refectory on a trolley, but she is not allowed to talk and everyone eats in silence. The kitchen is a different matter though and is filled with chatter from the kitchen staff (mostly younger nuns). Benedicte loves this job as it’s much less pressure than running a restaurant. Olivier has other ideas though, as he has purchased a property in Camon and wants to open a café/restaurant/ épicerie.

The meal is delicious, with most of the food having been grown on their land. A colourful salad of tomatoes, followed by Toulouse sausages baked on top of apples and potatoes. Dessert is an apple pancake baked in the pan. Ed and Olivier discuss the provenance and age of the wine, although Olivier speaks hardly any English and Ed speaks very little French but they have been friends for years and have always managed to converse – especially where wine is involved.

Tomorrow Limoux and the Commerce

This charming restaurant really embodies Spain and all it has to offer. Beautiful views of the sea, comfortable outdoor seating and most of all great Spanish food.

We have an assortment of tapas, artichokes with a spicy sauce, melting Camembert with crunchy dipping biscuits, calamares in the lightest of tempura batter. One of the best tortillas I have ever tasted, soft and runny in the middle and golden crunchy on the outside, topped with garlic mayonnaise. The crunchy tomato bread is delicious, baked until golden brown and then topped with olive oil and sweet pulped tomatoes.

After the meal, we take a walk along the front and buy ice cream from one of the many vendors. Too many flavours to choose from – coffee, lemon sorbet, nougat, chocolate, mint, hazelnut and on and on. Home for some night caps of baileys, whiskey and wine (not in the same glass!).

In the morning we walk down to Monserrat Cafe and order breakfast, English style, before they all leave for the airport and Pierre heads back to France. A great week and it has been a lot of fun spending time with everybody. Ed takes them to Girona whilst I catch up with all the washing and clearing up, wishing they were still here.

Tonight we’re invited to our Irish friends and we sit on their balcony looking out over the port and the sea, drinking wine and catching up on their news. Their daughter has moved in to the apartment downstairs in the same block, with her Spanish husband and they have a new baby daughter, just eight months old. They are just off to San Sebastián for a few days and we look forward to hearing all about the trip. San Sebastián has the most Michelin starred restaurants per square metre in Europe. I think we need to make a trip there soon. In the meantime we’re off to France this week, to stay with Pierre for a few days and see our friends in Mirepoix.

A bientôt

Pierre arrived from Mirepoix for the weekend. It’s good to see him after two years and catch up with life in the Ariege. He has been busy over lockdown, with people wishing to escape life in the big cities and move out to the beautiful French countryside. Most of the houses on his agency books have been sold. Some without the client even seeing them, such is the demand.

On the first evening, we eat at Pura Brasa, a great meat restaurant which serves wagyu beef. The burgers are extraordinary and it’s the first time Claudia has tried wagyu beef.

Ed is offered a straw for the huge bottle of red but declines and shares it with the rest of our party.

It’s always a pleasure to see Pierre as he introduces us to places we have never visited before. This week we went to Peretallada, a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, about 40 minutes from Empuria. It is set on a hillside with tiny winding cobbled streets. All the original doors and buildings still remain and it is a fascinating place. We walk the cobbled lanes and have lunch in a cool spot on the square.

Later we stop in Torroella de Montgri, another delightful town with a wonderful pastry shop and lots of interesting architecture. There is an old cinema with a restaurant attached. Pierre said he used to eat there many years ago and the food was very good. I feel like a small child next to Pierre and the tallest door in the world!

Second evening we eat at Capitan – Claudia is fascinated with Abi’s order of oysters. Pierre and I share a dish of thinly sliced courgette, dressed with olive oil, sun dried tomato, parmesan and black pepper.

Next – Enjoying a meal at the ENJOY restaurant

Today was interesting. We set off to Figueres and spent the morning looking at the sights, shopping and drinking coffee. First of all we came across a garage with a most unusual style of working. The cars are balanced somewhat precariously on a metal scissor elevator and the engineer works from a wooden ladder!

Next up was was the old herbalist shop that has been here since 1981, still selling beauty and diet products and giving advice on any health issue you may care to consult them about. We walked on to some of Dali’s statues and tributes, including an amazing trompe l’œil of Dali’s face.

We left the town and drove back to Empuria where we stopped at Capitans for lunch. Sitting next to us was a French couple and they had a basket of what looked like Cep mushrooms. I asked the guy where he had bought them and he said he got them from a local man (actually a fisherman who was also an expert in foraging for rare mushrooms) and he was waiting for some more. Within a few minutes, back came the fisherman with another basket of fungi, the like of which I have never seen before.

He explained to us the different types but apparently the most rare was the Amanita Caesera (the orange one in the photo). The amanita is the same genus as some of the most toxic mushrooms in the world. The Caesera was named after the Roman emperors, who were very fond of this mushroom. So fond in fact, that Claudius was poisoned by his wife, who mixed the mushrooms with a similar coloured poisonous one. Needless to say, we thanked the forager profusely when he offered us some, but declined to buy them.

Buen apetito

Abi, Julian and Claudia arrive and it’s wonderful to be able to enjoy a holiday together again. Ed picked them up from Girona and gave them a tour of Empuria on the way to the villa.

First night was spent at the tapas bar and then down to Capitan for a night cap. The drinks here are large and even larger for Ed when they just leave the bottle of whiskey and a glass in front of him and let him help himself (only charging for one shot, no matter how many he has!).

Next morning we pay a visit to the supermarket and come back with all sorts of goodies. Lunch at home and then out in the evening to Tagliatelle Italian restaurant. Pizzas, pastas and puddings all good, finishing at Capitans once again.

In the meantime, we sort out the dreaded PCR tests for the kids. For once, a simple procedure – just go to the medical centre, click on the QR code which tells you exactly what to do. Queue up, take the test and the result is through either immediately, a day later or two days later, depending on how urgent your test is. The cost – only 20 euros, compared to the ridiculous prices charged in some areas. Thank goodness this test will soon be history.

The kids go down to the beach and enjoy the sun and the sea. They are back in the afternoon for a swim and a cool down in the pool. Last night we walked down and bought two rotisserie chickens with potatoes cooked in the chicken juices – delicious. We served them with a large salad full of local produce. Huge tomatoes, sliced up with mozzarella, mixed green lettuces and french beans. We finished with a very ripe Camembert and fresh bread.

Tomorrow Pura Brasa and Wagyu Beef

We drove from Reims on to Lyon, where the motorway runs along the Rhône and through the outskirts of this great city. En route we saw the most incredible building called the Musee des Confluences, where the Saône and Rhone rivers converge. The museum tells the story of mankind and the history of life, through exhibits, science and architecture.

We carried on towards our hotel and as we came off the auto route just outside Lyon, we drove through a huge industrial area and I started to wonder just where I had booked our hotel. The road suddenly changed and we left all the traffic behind. The road went higher and higher, until we finally arrived in a tiny village way above Lyon with stunning views. We were made very welcome by the owner who made a great fuss of Polly and then showed us to our room. In the evening we had a meal in the elegant dining room, laid with crisp white linen and fresh flowers. The food was delicious, with Noix St Jacques, Cuisse de grenouilles, Filet de Boeuf, cheese and dessert. On the cheese plate the waiter had chosen for us, was Brillat-Savarin (I had never eaten it before). It was running off the plate and so delicious.

France is full of little gems like this hotel, tucked away in a small village high up above Lyon. We finished the evening walking to the square and watching the locals play pétanque on a mild, soft September evening. Vive la France

España mañana

So here we are, in France after an interesting first day. We spent the night at a friend’s apartment near the coast and left early for the Eurotunnel. Number plate recognition worked and we were sent through to the pet centre to have Polly’s papers checked. Unfortunately our vet had messed up the form (for which we had paid £135) so we were almost sent back home to get the form re-done. Luckily, the lady at the desk was more than helpful and told us just to cross out the wrong section. She stamped the papers and we were through!

Car straight onto the train with a good strong coffee and a bacon roll. Au revoir UK and bienvenu France. Thirty five minutes crossing and into Auchan for bread and cheese.

The autoroute was very quiet and we pushed on to Reims arriving in good time to have a rest and then find a restaurant for the evening. We found a local place, showed our double vaccination status and were seated. The waiter brought the menu and we chose a couple of dishes. We asked the waiter for the wine menu. No wine said the waiter, we serve halal meat and no alcohol. We nearly got up to go but the food looked good, so we bit the bullet and drank water and coke. The food was excellent but it needed a good bottle of wine to make it perfect. Hey ho. Back to the hotel and a proper drink to finish the evening.

Today we left Reims and drove to Beaune. Such a beautiful place. We had lunch opposite the Hospices de Beaune. A delicious meal WITH ALCOHOL this time! Salade de chèvre chaud for Ed and Œufs epoissé for me, accompanied by Affligem beer and a crisp rosé. Coffees and back on the road. We’re in Lyon tonight and on to Spain tomorrow.

España mañana

This week, we heard the sad news that our friend Doug had passed away. Nancy, his partner of 50 years, had taken him back to the USA from Mexico a few weeks back for treatment. Sadly the treatment failed and he died at his sister’s house near Denver. We have the fondest memories of him – a giant of a man. We will miss him. Our love goes to Nancy, who will return to Mexico soon with their dog Susi. RIP Doug in that great Yellowstone Park up above.

From 2021

All during the pandemic, people have had many new adventures, with businesses starting up, and people trying new things they had never experienced before. I’m learning Danish and Spanish, Ed has built a summer house, a pergola and we’ve gained a new dog. Abi has moved back to London, to a new office where doggies are now allowed to visit. One of my brothers has renovated his hair dressing salon which looks incredible.

My other brother has come through major surgery and yesterday we saw some footage of him dancing with his wife. Other friends are moving (in their 70s) to a huge house which needs complete renovation. An Irish friend has decided to sell her place in Ireland and buy a house in France. So many things have happened and the world has changed – some say for good. Watching the film Together (written by Dennis Kelly) with Sharon Horgan and James MacAvoy brought home the brutality of the pandemic but also showed how people have survived and in some respects, become stronger.

On their 41st wedding anniversary this year, our friends Nancy and Doug completed on their house in Mexico. This intrepid couple have travelled extensively and lived in many interesting places in the world. We first met them and their lovely dog, Fergus, in France when they lived in Leran (about 15 minutes from our place in Chalabre).

They worked as rangers in Yellowstone park and built a log cabin, in the mountains of Montana, learning as they went. (See below for details of their fascinating book). During the construction of the cabin, they lived in an Indian tipi which Nancy made, following instructions from a book, aptly named The Indian Tipi.

This new adventure looks so exciting and thankfully as the orange eejit has left the White House, and Joe Biden has brought some stability to the world, they will hopefully have a great life there.

There’s times when I have been bored to tears and at other times, moved to tears. If nothing else, the pandemic has taught us to be very grateful for what we have and for our family and friends. If we can just get back on the road again and be able to travel, life will almost be back to normal. Fingers crossed for the 19th of July!

With thanks to our dear friends and looking forward to visiting them in their new home – HASTA LUEGO