LA BELLE FRANCE

We left Empuria on a sunny afternoon and arrived in Mirepoix a couple of hours later with a temperature drop of ten degrees. The view of the Pyrenees as we came to Fanjeux was incredible and the welcome in Mirepoix more than made up for the cold weather. We met up with Ros, Andy, Ian and Jo, in Mirepoix market and had a coffee at St. Maurice Cafe with fresh croissants. The market was full of wonderful fresh products – oysters, mussels, clams, fresh bread, fresh cheeses and so many olive stalls.

We walked across to Pierre’s agency and he took us to his house where we are staying for the next couple of days. The house has been decorated with Pierre’s usual impeccable taste and looks amazing. There is still some work to be done but it looks beautiful.

After we unpack we drive over to Chalabre where we had previously lived and collect some paintings from a friend’s house. The village looks much the same, apart from the Carrefour store they have built right next to our old house which shades most of the walled garden from any light.

Back to Mirepoix and a rest before we’re out again up to Benedicte and Olivier’s house just above Camón. Olivier built this house from scratch and we christened it The Ponderosa. We are greeted at the huge gates by six dogs and Polly is petrified. Two Pyrenean mountain dogs, two hunting dogs and two smaller dogs. Ed keeps a tight hold on Polly as instructed by Olivier – until we get in to the house. They are so pleased to see us and make us very welcome. We sit in the salon and have some crisp cold rosé and aperos. The dogs are everywhere, enjoying the food. Polly is not amused!

We catch up with all their news. Julian their son is now an estate agent in Toulouse and Elise, their daughter is a lawyer. Sadly, they have sold their restaurant Llobet in Mirepoix and Benedicte now works at the Abbey in Fanjeaux, cooking for the Dominican nuns. She relates some funny tales about how she makes the food and delivers it to the refectory on a trolley, but she is not allowed to talk and everyone eats in silence. The kitchen is a different matter though and is filled with chatter from the kitchen staff (mostly younger nuns). Benedicte loves this job as it’s much less pressure than running a restaurant. Olivier has other ideas though, as he has purchased a property in Camon and wants to open a café/restaurant/ épicerie.

The meal is delicious, with most of the food having been grown on their land. A colourful salad of tomatoes, followed by Toulouse sausages baked on top of apples and potatoes. Dessert is an apple pancake baked in the pan. Ed and Olivier discuss the provenance and age of the wine, although Olivier speaks hardly any English and Ed speaks very little French but they have been friends for years and have always managed to converse – especially where wine is involved.