Le relais du pays du sault

When the various artisans were working on our house, we would start the day with coffee and discussions on food. Christian had taken us to the wonderful Chateau de Cavanac (www.chateau-de-cavanac.fr ). Phillipe, one of the painters, had mentioned a restaurant in Espezel, up in the mountains, which he called the Canteen. He gave us the number and we booked for the following week.

It was a fairly circuitous route up the mountain to Espezel with stunning views of the region. Eventually we found the village and there was the restaurant – a long sprawling building with lots of cars parked outside. It certainly looked like a canteen. As the route had taken longer than we expected, we arrived late (12.30 is late in France for lunch). We pushed open the door and the place was crammed with people. We thought we’d lost our place for lunch. The waitress came up to us carrying an enormous tray filled with plates and glasses. She took our name and then made her way in between the diners, balancing the heavy tray on her hip and pointed to the only empty table in the house. We sat down and looked at the menu.

After a few minutes, the waitress came back for our order, bringing with her an aperitif and a huge plate of charcuterie. There were three menus to choose from – €25,€31 or €34. The following is the basic six-course, €25 menu. The €31 menu included Fois gras and the €34 menu included foie gras AND ceps (meaty delicious mushrooms). So a choice of six, seven or eight course menus. We decided that the six course would be plenty for us.

Aperitif
charcuterie maison (house cured meats)
salad gésier (gizzard salad)
Followed by
1/2 magret grillé (duck breast) or
cuisse de canard (duck legs) or
aiguillettes de canard (duck wings) or
daube maison (stew) or
faux filet (steak) or
Pavé de biche (venison)
Followed by
salad
Fromage
Dessert
Vin et café compris

The charcuterie was delicious and we chose steak, venison and duck breast for our main courses, served on a platter with potatoes and vegetables. The cheese board was enormous and left on our table for us to help ourselves. Finally dessert, followed by coffee. As we sat back relishing the feast we had just eaten, the kitchen door opened and there stood the proprietor, P’tit Louis. From his beret to his ample girth, he was everybody’s idea of a typical French Chef. He walked amongst the diners and chatted to all. He held a porron in his hand (usually for pouring sangria) and as he approached the tables he surprised the diners by offering brandy and then pouring it into their mouth from a great height.

I was praying it wouldn’t be me as I really don’t like brandy and I had to drive back down the mountains. However, needless to say, he headed for our table. I managed to gulp down the spirit but Abi and the other diners thought it was hilarious when I started coughing. We paid the bill and took an even more circuitous route home. Another great experience in France.